Gen Z are bringing back controversial 90s fashion trend – but trying it on reminded me why pubs used to ban it

OF all the trends that inevitably come back around, “chav” was not on my fashion bingo card.

It’s no secret that fashion is circular. The Eighties rear their head and shoulder pads every other season, and Y2K has been a returning favourite for the last few years.

But seeing catwalks and high street shops full of chav-inspired looks that were never really in fashion in the first place is, well, baffling.

I can’t help but think this resurgence is being driven by Gen Z’s appetite for nostalgia and their fascination with fashion’s past, with designers and brands now responding by giving them exactly what they want.

Brands like Burberry are leaning into their working class roots and embracing their chequered (pardon the pun) heritage.

Their most recent ad campaign features the likes of Adolescence actor Stephen Graham, England footballer Declan Rice and model Romeo Beckham.

Meanwhile model-turned-actress Rosie Huntington-Whiteley also appears, looking insanely glamorous. Of course, they all have a smattering of the brand’s famous check in their looks.

But for me, Burberry will always go hand in hand with chavs.

Who could forget the, erm, “iconic” snaps of ex-EastEnders star Danniella Westbrook clad head-to-toe in the brand’s signature design – while pushing a Burberry-themed buggy – back in the early Noughties?

In the Nineties the chav uniform was branded sportswear worn as everyday clothing – Juicy Couture velour tracksuits, Stone Island knits and Fred Perry polo shirts.

Sadly for Burberry, they became synonymous with the chav movement and ever since the derogatory term was born, they haven’t been able to shake that reputation.

Burberry sat in the fashion brand sweet spot – high-end and British, but with accessories such as scarves costing around £70 to £150, far less than other designer brands.

But their ‘Nova’ check became a glaring status symbol, screaming: “Look, I can afford designer togs.”

During the late Eighties and Nineties, football‘s terrace tribes had swapped team colours for designer clobber, embracing pricey sportswear and luxury labels in a bid to blend into the crowd and stay off the police radar.

Burberry’s check was adopted by some as a badge of honour by the so-called ‘casuals’, but the association with football violence and antisocial behaviour soon became a PR nightmare for the brand.

Pubs began turning away anyone sporting the pattern and the backlash became so intense that Burberry was eventually forced to pull its signature baseball caps from sale altogether.

Some 150 years after it was founded, Burberry had finally lost its desirable appeal.

Worse, its identifiable print meant that it was easy to replicate, leading to an influx of cheap knock-offs that spread like wildfire.

Far from being prestigious, Burberry was now ‘common’.

In recent years, the Basingstoke-born brand has been trying to shed its dodgy past.

In 2001, they brought in design director Christopher Bailey, who famously re-branded them by ditching their bold signature check altogether and hiring models-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell to flog their clothes.

It worked for a time, but Burberry’s stock fell when Bailey left in 2018.

Fast forward to now and, with their celeb-packed ad campaign and equally star-studded London Fashion Week shows, they are clawing back their status.

Aside from their footy-themed commercial, they’ve also teamed up with cult swimwear brand Hunza G, putting the tan, white and black print on bikinis, swimsuits and summer accessories with a campaign featuring Bridgerton actress Simone Ashley.

But it’s not just Burberry who has chav associations.

Top designer labels like Celine, Prada and Miu Miu have also embraced the working class stereotype, happily flogging tracksuits in shell-like fabrics, along with track trousers and shorts.

According to fashion search engine Lyst, the hottest, most in-demand product for the first quarter of the year globally, was Saint Laurent’s £2,305 beige and blue track jacket – a take on the ‘chav’ look but with a price tag that’s more than most people’s monthly rent.

Variations of the much sought-after shell jacket have been worn by Hailey Bieber, Zoe Kravitz and Charli XCX – with micro shorts and sheer tights – cementing its must-have status.

The trend has now stepped off swanky Bond Street and onto the high street and beyond, with legendary supermodel Yasmin Le Bon’s collaboration with George at Asda flying off the rails and even M&S embracing sportswear as daywear.

Adidas have been collaborating with Asos for sell-out collections of stylish streetwear, too.

With a mix of oversized silhouettes, pinstripes and athletic styles, the collections have gone viral on social media.

The third and most recent range, released last month, featured a polka dot jacket at £100 and trousers at £80, as well as a pink shell jacket (£120) and matching balloon trousers for £100. They have all sold out.

But let’s not beat about the bush. In a lurid shade of Gaviscon pink, the fashionable co-ord is a tracksuit – and it wouldn’t look out of place on Little Britain’s iconic chav, Vicky Pollard.

And why would anyone want to look like Matt Lucas dressed as a parody of a teenage chav? No offence, Matt.

For me, it’s just not a look that is inspirational or anything close to stylish.

Heavily influenced by Hailey Bieber and co, I did think about embracing the chav resurgence myself.

But after a short, sharp word with myself, I thought: “Will I look like I’m in a Harry Enfield sketch in the Nineties? Yes. Can I carry that off in everyday life? Absolutely not.”

The ridicule I’d face from friends and family isn’t worth it for the sake of being so-called on-trend, but even standing in front of my bedroom mirror, I’d feel like I was off to a fancy dress party.

And with anything and everything documented on our phones, be it the camera roll or social media, I for one don’t want to be reminded in a few years’ time that I once dressed like a chav.

But, like it or lump it, there is no escaping the chav comeback.

With the World Cup around the corner, sports style isn’t going to go away quietly, it’s only going to get more prominent and louder.

However, there are ways we can subtly nod to the trend, without dressing like we’ve just been slapped with an ASBO.

HOW TO WEAR SPORTS LUXE:

Swap your restricting and weighty jeans and creased linen trousers for a lightweight track-trouser this summer.

Leave the stripped sides for sports. Plain, loose styles with comfy elasticated, tied waists are a great go-to paired with a crisp white shirt or plain T-shirt.

Windbreakers are hugely practical in summer and can save you from a downpour or the evening chill.

Stick to summer shades and blouson styles with a must-have funnel neck that looks less like you’re heading to a running tack and more like you’re heading for cocktails. Style with a midi skirt.

When it comes to shorts, skip the PE look and opt for a sleeker, more chic take with bermuda shorts.

With the tied waist and fluid fabric, they will keep you cool and skim over your hips and thighs. And when paired with a heeled flip-flop, you’ll look like you’ve just stepped off a catwalk.

Instead of a “sports” slogan or branded sweatshirt, tick the trend box with a rugby shirt.

With a polo-style collar, they’ll inject some colour into your outfit and act as a cosy addition to your casual looks.