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I’m a dermatologist, these are the best Korean skincare secrets to save money and keep skin looking fresh
FORGET the viral 10-step skincare routine.
K-beauty has taken the internet by storm, with Brits turning to Korean skincare in the hunt for “glass skin” and a more youthful appearance.
But experts say the real secret isn’t using more products – it’s using the right ones.
“It’s all about consistency,” says GP and renowned K-beauty expert Dr Christine Hall, who gave me the lowdown on some of her top tips and recommendations.
In Korea, skincare follows a “slow-ageing” approach, focusing on protecting and strengthening the skin over time with hydration, barrier repair and prevention.
Sharing her thoughts on the viral 10-step routine, Dr Hall says skincare “doesn’t have to be complicated”.
“If I speak to my Korean auntie about the 10-step routine, she doesn’t know what I’m talking about,” says Dr Hall. “Some days, I personally don’t wear a moisturiser.”
Instead, SPFs and dedicated serums can double up – an approach that fits with what Koreans refer to as “skip-care”.
The aim is to strip your routine back to a few essentials, saving time and money while helping prevent overloaded skin, which can lead to breakouts.
“The best advice you can give anyone is to use SPF,” she tells me.
“About 90% of the visible signs of ageing are due to sun damage.”
Rays from the sun break down collagen and elastin, causing skin to become loose and wrinkle over time.
Unless you suffer from very dry skin, Dr Hall recommends skipping moisturiser in favour of a dedicated SPF or serum – one of Dr Hall’s faves costs just over a fiver, and it doesn’t compromise on quality.
Altruist Dermatologist Sunscreen SPF50, £5.50
Altruist Dermatologist Sunscreen SPF50, £5.50, was developed by Dr Andrew Birnie, a UK skin cancer specialist, so it’s suitable for sensitive skin and reduces skin cancer risk alongside signs of ageing.
I put it to the test and found it easily doubled up as a moisturiser, and it didn’t leave my skin looking ashy or chalky – if you have oily skin, there’s also a lighter version, Altruist Dermatologist Face Fluid SPF30, £8.65.
When it comes to the rest of your routine, these are the K-beauty secrets Dr Hall recommends.
New Doesn’t Always Mean Better
Some of K-beauty’s most talked-about ingredients may sound unusual, but many are rooted in long-standing Korean beauty traditions.
Dr Hall explains that while ingredients like snail mucin have become global skincare sensations, their popularity is largely based on generations of use rather than clinical research.
“You’re not going to see medical papers written on it, but people in Korea swear by it. The same with rice water,” she says.
You can find this in I’m From Rice Toner, £26.50, which is deeply hydrating and designed for all skin types.
“Hundreds of years ago, women washed rice and their hands ended up being really soft and smooth.
“That’s how they worked out rice water is a really good ingredient.”
I’m From Rice Toner, £26.50
Did You Say Salmon Sperm?
Another viral ingredient that raises eyebrows is something called PDRN – as found in Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum, £20, which flew off shelves.
“PDRN is an ingredient derived typically from salmon sperm,” Dr Hall explains.
“In Korea, it’s an ingredient that’s all over the place – if you go into a pharmacy, you’ll find it.”
In clinics, it’s even injected to help stimulate collagen, wound repair and calm inflammation.
She adds: “The argument is that the PDRN molecule is too big to pass through the skin.”
While that’s true, she says many other skincare ingredients, like collagen, also sit on the skin’s surface.
Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum, £18
Forget Kombucha, Try Fermented Skincare
When we think of something fermented, we often think of foods like kimchi or kombucha – but it’s not just food, it turns out we can ferment skincare, too.
What’s more, fermented ingredients can actually boost absorption into the skin.
“When we ferment skincare, we make the ingredient’s molecule size much smaller,” says Dr Hall
This process can help ingredients absorb more easily, while also unlocking additional benefits, like peptides and organic acids, which help improve the skin’s texture, firmness and elasticity, aiding anti-ageing.
Why Redness Does Not Mean Results
If you’re looking for an anti-ageing ingredient with the strongest medical backing, retinol is considered the “gold standard”.
Developed from vitamin A, it’s used to tackle fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and even acne – but it’s not for everyone.
Retinol can cause redness, peeling and even “retinol burn” if you start too strong – it’s also best to avoid during pregnancy or if you suffer from conditions like eczema or rosacea.
That’s why Dr Hall recommends a gentler K-beauty approach for beginners.
“K-beauty is very skin-barrier-first,” she says.
“Here in Britain, we’re quite into our harsh ingredients – if something causes a bit of redness, we get a bit excited and we’re like: ‘Oh, it’s doing something!’
“Over in Korea, they very much believe nothing should impact the skin to cause redness.
“So, when they do make these ingredients, they formulate them to be really nice and gentle.”
One example is Beauty of Joseon Revive Firming Moisturizer, £21, which has gone viral for its gentle formula.
It contains fermented retinol, which is more easily absorbed, and also contains ginseng – another ingredient widely used in Korea for its anti-ageing benefits.
Beauty of Joseon Revive Firming Moisturizer, £21
The Gentle Approach
It’s not just what Koreans use, it’s how they use it – and one technique can help you save money and reduce signs of ageing.
Many use a technique called “tok tok” – gently tapping products into the face rather than rubbing into the skin.
Dr Hall says this helps avoid pulling on the skin, uses less product, and may even help boost circulation at the skin’s surface – another anti-ageing benefit.
But before splashing out on new serums, it’s also worth looking at your lifestyle.
“How you sleep, how you eat, stress, whether you smoke or not, whether you live in a city – all of those things will have an impact,” she explains.
While products can help, healthy skin starts with consistent everyday habits.
“Prevention is better than cure, always,” says Dr Hall.
